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????? ???? ??? ??? ????? ?????? ??? ??? ????? ???? ???? ???????. ????? ?????? ???????? ?????? ??????? ???????. ???? ??? ?? ???? ????? ???? ??? ???? ???? ???? ??? ?????. ??? ????? ?????? ???? "????? ?? ??"(全聚德)? ???? ???? ?? ??? 1864? ????? ???? ???? ????? ??? ??? 1949? ??? ?????? ?????? ???? ?????? ??????? ????????? ???? ??? ????? ???????? ???????? ?????? ???? ??????. ?? ?????? ???? "???? ?? ????"(便宜坊)? ???? ???? ???? ?? 600 ???? ????? ?????? ????? ?? ????? ??????. ?? ????? ????? "?? ????" (大董) ???? ??????? ????? ?????? ?? ????? ??? 2017 ????? ?? ???????? ??? ?????? ????? ?? ???????.